Moda na Construção (do Discurso) da Arquitetura - de 1898 a 1944

Abstract

This dissertation analyses the presence of fashion arguments in the discussion of architecture. It focuses on the reflections of Adolf Loos and Bernard Rudofsky. The time span analysed is between 1898 and 1944, as these are the years of publication of Loos' articles "Men's Fashion" and "Ladies' Fashion", and Rudofsky's exhibition "Are Clothes Modern?", respectively. Also considered are Otto Wagner, for his possible influence on Loos, and other contemporaries of his, such as Josef Hoffmann, who were also involved in this discussion. The method consists of analysing primary sources, complemented by the study of the work of contemporary authors where the theme is addressed. The biographies of the protagonists are used to contextualise the design of the reflections. In this way, it is shown that fashion also served the discourse of modern architects, as well as those who criticised this movement. By analysing the speeches of Adolf Loos and Bernard Rudofsky as representative examples, throughout the dissertation we reflect on their convictions, confronting the arguments that lead them to adopt different visions of the ideal architecture to serve society, and studying the role of fashion in this process. The aim of this work is to revive the importance of fashion in the discourse on architecture, helping to recognise the discipline as an important factor in theoretical reflection. The aim is to help reconstitute the complexity of architectural theory, which over time has crystallised into simplistic versions by eliminating some of the themes that make it up.